Grooming Different Coat Types
Smooth
o Check the records for the dog and note any problems previously identified.
o Carry out a visual health check and assessment of grooming requirements and record findings. If required trim nails (some groomers prefer to do this following bathing and drying)
o Generally smooth coats (Labrador, Pointer, Beagle) have limited amount of coat and hair to remove. Assess the coat for moulting visually
o Use a grooming mitt or pad, or shedding blade to remove loose coat and hair . If using a grooming mitt or glove this should be done in small circular movements starting on the thighs and working towards the head and then moving back to the legs. Where there is slightly thicker or longer coat a medium or fine comb or slicker brush can be used
o Use a bristle brush to help remove all traces of dander and dust or the slicker brush and then prepare the dog for bathing
Silky Coat
Some silky coats can be hand stripped (Spaniels) so it is important to double check grooming records as to the method previously used to groom and style the coat and to select approriate method
o Check the records for the dog and note any problems previously identified.
o Carry out a visual health check and assessment of grooming requirements and record findings. If required trim nails (some groomers prefer to do this following bathing and drying)
o Select appropriate grooming equipment depending on visual assessment. This may include a pin brush, or softer touch slicker, wide and medium toothed comb and if matted a dematting tool.
o Following assessment of the coat use the pin brush or slicker starting on the back leg brushing the coat in an upward motion in 'layers' working methodically over the whole body.
o Using the wider toothed comb, go back and comb into layers. Repeat with a medium toothed comb.
o Once the coat is groomed out and free from matts it is ready for bathing
Double Coat
o Check the records for the dog and note any problems previously identified.
o Carry out a visual health check and assessment of grooming requirements and record findings. If required trim nails (some groomers prefer to do this following bathing and drying)
o Select appropriate grooming equipment depending on visual assessment. Double coated breeds such as a Japanese Akita can have quite short coats to the longer length of the GSD or Old English Sheepdog. Some have coats identified as being 'open' which means that when you part the coat the skin is easily visible whereas on a breed such as a Chow Chow this is more difficult. Tools might include a dematting tool, a slicker brush , a wide/medium toothed comb.
o It is important to check for matts and tangles and dead undercoat and remove these with the appropriate tool.
o Generally grooming starts at the hind leg at around the hock area Using an undercoat rake carefully work on small areas until the skin becomes visible working methodically over the whole body of the dog.
o Repeat the whole process using a brush followed by a comb
o Once the coat is groomed out and free from matts it is ready for bathing
Wool
o Check the records for the dog and note any problems previously identified.
o Carry out a visual health check and assessment of grooming requirements and record findings. If required trim nails (some groomers prefer to do this following bathing and drying)
o Select appropriate grooming equipment depending on visual assessment. The wool coat is the only coat that does not naturally moult and depending on the frequency of grooming and owners attention to grooming between grooms coats can be quite matted especially if they have been wet and allowed to dry naturally. A dematting tool may be required, a slicker brush and a wide and medium toothed combs may all be used as tools of choice.
o As with other coat types it is generally recommended that the grooming begins on the hind leg. Using the slicker brush, brush the coat in a methodical manner against the direction of coat growth to break up knots and tangles. if required use the dematting tool to break up matts.
o Repeat the whole process using a brush followed by a comb until the whole coat has been 'back combed’.
o Comb the hair on the ears from the base ensuring all matts and tangles are removed
o Once the coat is groomed out and free from matts it is ready for bathing
Wire
Some wire coats can be hand stripped (Terriers) so it is important to double check grooming records as to the method previously used to groom and style the coat and to select appropriate method
Wire coats
o Check the records for the dog and note any problems previously identified.
o Carry out a visual health check and assessment of grooming requirements and record findings. If required trim nails (some groomers prefer to do this following bathing and drying)
o Select appropriate grooming equipment depending on visual assessment.
o A 'natural wire coat' - is found on breeds such as Border Terriers where the coat is grown to the same length all over. A 'styled wire coat' is one that has longer facial and leg hair (Westie and Airedale being examples of this) - these breeds have hair that is cut down to the appropriate length. For a natural wire coat a slicker brush, moulting rake and wide and medium toothed comb are generally the tools of choice. As with other coats work methodically through the coat using the slicker brush or rake to break up the longer hairs of the coat.
o Repeat the whole process using a brush followed by a comb
o Once the coat is groomed out and free from matts it is ready for bathing
o For a 'styled coat' the process is similar although obviously there is more coat on the legs and head and so grooming out should be adapted appropriately
Hand Stripping
Hand Stripping is a technique that takes a lot of practice. It is VITAL that the coat is correctly assessed prior to stripping as if it is not ready to be stripped it can be an extremely painful procedure.
Hand stripping removes a percentage of the dog's top coat or guard hairs whilst leaving the soft undercoat untouched. Hand stripping is what it says, stripping by hand. Generally no electrical tools or equipment are used to remove hair.
Hand stripping is carried out on wire coats and some silky coats. It should only be carried out on suitable coats and will help retain the coats proper texture and correct colour. Even if the breed is suitable for hand stripping the individual may not - hormones play a part in coat texture so if a dog has been spayed or neutered then it may not be strippable as the texture and structure of the coat may have altered. Clipping may also alter the coat texture leaving it unsuitable for hand stripping.
At certain times of the year the coat is easier to pull out, ideally hand stripping should correspond with the dogs natural cycle based on environment daylight and hormone levels.
There are two methods of hand stripping. It can be carried out with stripping knife, where the hair is trapped between the knife blade and thumb and then pulled out. Alternatively hand stripping can be done between the thumb and the index finger.
Generally a coat prior to hand stripping is not bathed. Bathing leaves the coat soft and glossy and there is a limited ability to hold the hairs. If a dog has very dirty or greasy coat it is advisable to bath 3-5 days prior to stripping.
Most groomers start at the head end working with the direction of coat growth down the body and legs. With hand stripping extreme caution is required when stripping the 'delicate areas’ around the eyes and sanitary and hygiene areas. Thinning scissors are used to tidy and shape the feet and these or blending scissors can be used to tidy the face.