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How to bandage a dogs foot 

Chest Wound

A chest injury may compromise the dog’s respiratory system therefore it may struggle to breathe (dyspnoea).

 

The following treatment should commence:

 

  • Always follow the ABC rules

  • Control any bleeding by applying pressure

  • Monitor the dog for signs of shock and treat for shock where necessary 

  • Identify the wound – if the dog has a chest wound that exposes the lung, there is a deep puncture wound that creates a loud ‘sucking’ noise when the dog breathes and/or there are bubbles at the wounds site – ACT FAST!  - seek immediate veterinary attention.

    • If the puncture wound is tiny – you may seal this with petroleum jelly and then cover with either a cloth or plastic wrap before transporting the dog for veterinary attention.

    • If the puncture wound is large – cover with plastic wrap/cling film to form a seal.  Hold this in place or wrap this around the thorax.  Once this is in place, the dog should be encouraged to lay on its injured side to aid with the seal.

  • The dog should then be immediately transported to vets on a rigid surface to keep the dog flat. The parcel shelf of a car is ideal for this task.

  • Continue to monitor the vital signs (temperature, pulse and respiration) while transporting the dog as these can rapidly decline.

     

    A first aid bandage is usually a temporary solution until the dog can receive veterinary attention.

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    Epistaxis (Nose bleed)

    A dog’s nose may bleed for a number of reasons:

        - Irritation to the nasal passage - i.e. dry climate / chemicals in the air

        - Reaction to medication

        - Sign of a unlinking disease / disorder / condition

        - Wound or injury that is not apparent 

     

     

    The blood can originate from anywhere in the dogs respiratory system, it could be an injury to the dogs nares (nostrils) or internal bleeding which is then coughed up through the mouth and nose from the lungs.

     

    The method of treatment will depend on how serious the bleed is. Nose bleeds can quickly become severe and lead to shock.

     

    The treatment of nose bleed is as follows:

  • Restrain the dog.

  • Using a clean dressing, piece of material or a well wrapped ice pack to apply light pressure to the nostrils for at least 10 minutes. Do not impede the dogs breathing.

  • Monitor mucus membrane colour

  • Monitor for signs of shock

  • Where the bleeding has not been caused by an external trauma veterinary investigation will be required.

 

During a nose bleed the dog may swallow significant amounts of blood. Some of this may be coughed back out through the mouth but some may be digested, resulting in the production of black faeces.

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Bleeding Claws

As dogs claws have a small blood vessel running through them (the quick) cutting them too short can result in bleeding.

 

As the blood vessel is so small it can be easily stopped with the use of clotting agents. Clotting agents are externally applied powders or dressings which, when put into contact with the bleed cause immediate clotting and block the blood vessel.

 

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Dealing with Shock

 

Shock is a medical term for a loss of circulation. After a trauma an animal's blood pressure could become critically low and as a result the brain and other vital organs are not getting enough blood.  

Shock can be fatal. If an animal is displaying signs of shock contact the vet immediately.

 

Causes of shock

When animals are bleeding excessively (internally or externally) they lose the ability to thermoregulate therefore must be kept warm at all times.

Animals who are treated quickly can recover well from shock within a few hours.  However, given that shock is so serious and quickly affects the circulatory system dogs can die within 10-20 minutes. Immediate first aid and veterinary attention is essential.

 

Recognising the warning signs:

  • Weakness, convulsions or collapse, caused by the brain being starved of oxygen.

  • Dullness and depression

  • Unconsciousness

  • Pale mouth, lips and eyelid colour.

  • Coolness of the skin, legs and inside of the mouth.

  • Rapid, but weak pulse (may be over 160-180 per minute for a small dog and 140 per minute for a large to medium dog).

  • Rapid breathing.

  • Fixated stare with dilated pupils.

Dealing with Shock:

  • Keep the animal calm.

  • Do not let the dog walk

  • Do not offer any food.

  • Wrap the dog in a blanket or towel to conserve body heat, do not apply direct heat.

  • If the dog is unconscious, keep its head lower than, the rest of the body.

  • If a heartbeat can not be detected by placing the dog on its right side on a firm surface, provide artificial respiration/CPR (cardio pulmonary resuscitation).

  • Transport the dog to the vet immediately - timing is vital and intravenous fluids may be required.

  • Monitor vital signs every 5 minutes, keeping a record for when the vet arrives

Foil shock blankets are useful in the temporary management of shock as they keep the current heat the body is producing from escaping into the air.

 

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 Dealing with fractures

 

Dogs have 319 bones in their body from the jaw to the tip of the tail; all of which can be fractured (broken).

 

 

Closed fracture - Is a broken bone that does not penetrate the skin

Closed fractures are easily confirmed as the dog may be holding its limb at an abnormal angle or it may be ‘dangling’ in s strange way. There will also be inflammation and pain evident.

 

Open fracture - Is a broken bone that penetrates the skin

Open fractures can result in significant blood loss and increased the risk of infection.

 

Fractured limbs also come with the risk of internal/external bleeding – a fractured limb can easily rupture a blood vessel.  Ruptured blood vessels must be treated and the haemorrhage controlled as a matter of urgency.

 

Animal with fractures will need immediate veterinary attention and prompt first aid will aid in preventing further damage and reducing pain and distress; in some cases, it may save their life.

 

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Splinting broken limbs:

If veterinary attention is more than 20-30 minutes away then the broken limb will need to be put into a splint. 

The aim of a splint is to:

  • Support

  • Protection

  • Restrict movement

 

It is important to immobilise the joint both above and below the fracture site.

 

The femur or and humerus can be difficult to immobilise therefore it is best practice to avoid splinting unless there is exposed bone. Where the bone is exposed it should be covered with a sterile wound dressing and then the limb wrapped with suitable material.

 

Remember:

Before splinting the situation should be discussed with a veterinary surgeon to ensure the procedure will be beneficial.

 

Splinting correctly

 

NB: to splint a fractured limb, you will require materials not only that provide cushioning to the limb but also keep it stationary – a perfect alternative is bubble wrap.

 

  • For fractures of the lower limb, ensure that the splint covers the entire limb (all the way up the leg). 

  • Wrap the limb with wadding/soft towel

  • Splint the leg with a rigid device (whatever is available – this may include a rolled up magazine, newspaper or a first aid splint device)

  • Never try to straighten the limb or reposition the fracture (you will cause further damage and pain and ultimately you may sever a blood vessel which will result in further complications).

  • Attempt to pad the limb and use the rigid device to aid stability of the fracture site.

  • Wrap the entire limb with any of the following; conforming bandage, a thick, padded bandage, bubble wrap to hold the splint device in place.

  • Once wrapped the limb should be at least double its original diameter

  • Wrap from the foot upwards however you should leave the digits exposed

  • If the foot swells, you should loosen the bandage and reapply

     

    Pelvic and spinal fractures – keep the dog immobilised and transport to the vets.  You can use a stretcher or other alternatives to include a parcel shelf, wood, blanket.

     

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    Burns

    Burns are split into three categories.

     

     

1st degree = are considered mild compared to others. Result in pain and reddening of the epidermis (outer layer of the skin)

2nd degree = partially thicker than above. Result in pain, redness, swelling and blistering  of the epidermis and dermis (lower layer of skin)

3rd degree = full thickness burn. Goes through the dermis and affect deeper tissue. Results in white or blackened skin that maybe numb.

 

Contact burns may take up to 48 hours to fully develop and the skin damage may be disguised by the animals hair. Skin which has been burnt may appear dry, darker and firmer than healthy skin. Painful lesions or blisters may develop.

Thermal burn treatment

  • Cool the area for a minimum of 20 minutes using a clean, cold water compress (do not use oils, or direct contact with ice). Immediate application of the compress may prevent the burn affecting deeper tissue layers. Alternatively – submerge the area in cool water for a minimum of 20 minutes or run under a cool shower

  • Do not break any blisters which have developed – this opens the wound and increases the risk of infection

  • Wrap the area affected in soft material and seek veterinary attention

  • Monitor for signs of shock

Clipper burn and brush burns are NOT physical burns, rather skin irritation and should be treated differently. Soothing creams can be used.

Chemical burn treatment

  • Human health and safety should be maintained and gloves worn.

  • Rinse the affected area with cool water for a minimum 20 minutes, take care not to spread the chemicals. Mild shampoos can be used to aid the process.

  • Once rinsed, wrap the area affected in soft material and seek veterinary attention

Electrical burn treatment

  • Switch off all electricity and ensure the area is safe

  • Assess the dog for signs of shock

  • Wrap the area affected in soft material and seek veterinary attention

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Seizures

 

Seizure = a sudden attack of illness, could be a result of a stroke or epileptic fit.

 

Seizures can be caused by:

  • Eating poison

  • Stroke

  • Epilepsy

  • Low or high blood sugar 

  • Head injury 

 

Before a seizure the dog may go into the ‘aura’ phase – this is just prior to the loss of consciousness and during this time the dog may vocalise, become agitated or maintain a fixed stare. 

 

During a seizure the dog will collapse and start ‘paddling’ its legs.  During the seizure, it may vocalise. 

The treatment of seizures should be as follows:

 

  • Remove dangerous objects from the environment

  • Place padding around the dog to prevent further injury

  • Keep the dog cool

  • Reduce stimulation, e.g. lighting and noise levels

  • Monitor vitals and reassure the dog

     

    Status epilepticus -  A seizure that has lasted longer than 10 minutes or where the animal keeps having seizures without regaining consciousness in between.  This is extremely dangerous as the body’s core temperature will continue to rise, causing further seizures.  Prolonged seizures can result in brain damage or even death. Transport the dog to the vet immediately.

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    Insect Stings

    Wasp and bee stings are extremely common over the summer months and should be treated carefully.

     

  • Follow the ABC rule – if the dog is not breathing properly veterinary attention will be required

  • Remove stinger (where appropriate).  A bee will leave its stinger inside the tissue and this will continue to push venom into the body as long as it remains.  Never use tweezers to remove as this will inject the venom further into the tissue – a sting should be scraped outwards using a credit card or finger nail.

  • Apply a cool compress to the affected area to reduce inflammation and sooth the pain – there may be inflammation of the affected area and this will show within 20 minutes or so. 

  • Monitor for signs of shock (anaphylactic shock) or allergic response.

     

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    Heat Stroke

     

     

    Dogs do not sweat in order to thermoregulate; instead they ‘fluff’ their coats to allow air circulation, that in turn cools the skin on the body.  Dogs also pant to thermoregulate – this is their primary cooling method and allows the rapid exchange of cool external air with warm internal air.  In addition to this process, the tongue allows for effective moisture evaporation.

     

    When the outside temperature reaches above 37.2ºC to approximately 39.1ºC, the dogs cooling systems will not be effective therefore heat stroke can occur.

     

Core temperature range of a dog

 38-39.2 celsius

 

 

If the body temperature moves even marginally above this range, heat stroke is likely.  If the body temperature reaches 1-2 degrees higher it can become fatal.

 

Signs of heat stroke:

  • Bright red mucus membranes and tongue

  • Excessive panting

  • Signs of discomfort (e.g. agitation)

  • High rectal temperature

  • Collapse/coma

     

    The treatment of heat stroke is as follows:

     

  • Follow the ABC rule

  • Monitor vital signs – keep checking rectal temperature every 5 minutes

  • Cool the dog using luke warm water (do not use ice as this may cause vasoconstriction resulting in further heat loss)

  • Situate dog in a cool place out of direct sunlight

  • Encourage the dog to drink cool water (can add a pinch of salt to rebalance electrolytes)

  • Monitor for signs of shock and treat for shock where appropriate

  • Transport to the vets urgently

     

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    Choking

     

    Signs of choking

  • Pawing or rubbing their mouth

  • Gagging / retching

  • Increased salivation

  • Coughing with difficulty inhaling

  • Breathing difficulties

  • Blue mucous membranes (cyanosis)

  • Collapse

 

The treatment of choking is as follows:

  • Open the mouth, if the object is easily visible and easy to get hold of remove the object with large tweezers  -  if this is not possible do not attempt removal as the object may be pushed further down the throat.

  • DO NOT PUSH THE OBJECT

  • Large objects may be dislodged by applying firm pressure at the top of the dogs throat (under the bottom jaw) with both thumbs and pushing forwards.

  • If the dog is completely unable to breath  or cough the Heimlich manoever may be used:

    • Heimlich manoeuver -  Small dogs. Hold the dog so its back is against the handlers stomach. Place a fist into the hollow at the base of the ribs and thrust upwards. Repeat 4- 5 times in quick succession. Carefully remove any dislodged objects.

    • Heimlich manoeuver - Large dogs. Lay the dog on its side and kneel behind its back. Place a fist into the hollow at the base of the ribs and push up and inwards towards the head sharply. Repeat 4- 5 times in quick succession. Carefully remove any dislodged objects.

    • Alternative - With the dog standing, straddle the dog from the back, place both hands around its waste, a fist into the hollow at the base of the ribs and push up and inwards towards the head sharply. Repeat 4- 5 times in quick succession. Carefully remove any dislodged objects.

  • If the object is still not removed transport urgently to the vet.

  • Should the dog stop breathing begin CPR.

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Paraphimosis (protruded penis)

Paraphimosis is the inability to retract an extruded penis back into the sheath. The sheath can become tight around the penis leading to restricted blood flow and further swelling which can in turn cause tissue damage and potential damage to the urethra.

 

Paraphimosis can be caused by:

 

  • Chronic licking

  • Excitement

  • Irritation

  • Underline issue within the area 

 

 

The treatment of paraphimosis is as follows:

  • Clean the exposed penis, checking for any foreign objects or tangled hairs which could make retraction uncomfortable.

  • Apply a cold compress to reduce the swelling

  • Apply lubrication to the penis to aid retraction

  • Should paraphimosis continue for 30 minutes, seek veterinary assistance.

 

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Emergency Transportation

 

An animal with a spinal injury/other fracture must be immobilised immediately.

A flat, rigid surface will be needed, e.g. a board, parcel shelf or an actual dog stretcher can be used for this type of transportation.

The animal must be secured to the stretcher to immobilise it, preventing any further damage.  Cover the dog with a blanket to keep it warm and monitor for signs of shock.

In the absence of a stretcher, use a strong tape, e.g. duct tape to strap the dog to the emergency device, e.g. parcel shelf. 

 

Where a spinal injury/limb fracture is not evident, there are alternative methods of transportation such as soft, quick carry stretchers, towels or blankets. 

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